Brown Brothers pretty much owns the Moscato market in Australia. Go to the Moscato section of any major bottleshop and you’re likely to find three or four different Brown Brothers versions plus a couple of bargain cheapies like Gossips or Banrock Station. Today’s wine is their top-of-the-line offering: Brown Brothers Moscato Gold 2018.
It seems a little odd to market a premium wine as “gold-label” in the same way a premium washing powder or yogurt would be. But then I’m sure Brown Brothers knows a lot more about selling Moscato then I do. And, I guess, gold packaging is a better way to signal quality to most consumers than labeling it “reserve”, which is an overused term many wineries use that usually means nothing.
One thing I like about Moscato is that around $20 a bottle is about as expensive as it gets in Australia. It’s a completely unpretentious style of wine that’s accessible to everyone. On the downside, most versions sold here tend to be overly sweet and lacking in acidity. Of course, most regular Moscato drinkers don’t mind that, but it’s a turnoff for many others. And it doesn’t have to be that way, as the Innocent Bystander range (also owned by Brown Brothers) shows.
The Review: Brown Brothers Moscato Gold 2018
The nose is very fruity, with lots of stone fruits, papaya and citrus. There’s a nice refreshing acidity on the palate, which is good to see. Of course, there is sweetness here as well but it works in tandem with the acidity rather than swamping it. Unfortunately, that balance comes slightly unstuck as the sweetness finally comes in to dominate. Still, this is a Moscato that’s pretty easy to like. It’s a step up from most of the offerings you will find on the shelves.